The village bar on the church square used to only open at the weekend, for funerals and when it rained. When the hippies arrived in Santa Gertudis in the ’70s, there were many artists among them including Chile-native Andrés Monreal. The painter didn’t have a penny for bread and wine and so painted a mural for bar proprietor Vicent instead: it became the first image in his art collection. Still today, young people queue up just like 40 years ago thanks to the delicious and cheap “bocadillos.”